Bringing Your New Dog Home
What you do in the first few weeks when your dog comes home is important in how well your current pets adjust to their new friend, and can prevent future squabbles and scuffles between your pets.
Fido, Meet Spot
If you already own a dog and are considering acquiring another, one of the best things you can do prior to adoption is to bring your current dog with you to meet his potential new buddy. Introductions are always completed best on neutral territory, where neither dog feels threatened or feels the need to defend his "turf.” Ideally, find a fenced yard or other large area where the dogs can be slowly introduced while on a leash. If all goes well, then they can be released to play freely off-lead. By using this method of introduction, a lot of snarling, growling, and hair-raising is easily avoided. Provided both dogs seem to approve of one another, they can both go home as pals as opposed to being introduced on Resident Rover's property where he may feel the need to be defensive and protective.
If the above scenario is not possible, then you'll need to recruit a volunteer. When your new dog arrives home, arrange to have someone walk him down the street. You, of course, will need to take Rover on a nice little walk where he can be introduced to his new friend. While not all dogs require such effort for introductions, it is definitely the easiest way to encourage a smooth transition for both dogs.
Establishing Pack Order,
It's perfectly normal for your own dog to feel a little overwhelmed with his new friend. At first, you may see some posturing behavior, or even a couple of snarls as the dogs decide who is going to be boss. It's important to let the dogs work it out amongst themselves, and only intervene if the scuffle turns into a true fight. (Use a hose, water, or a chair to break it up - to prevent getting bitten, never grab the dogs by their collars.) Most dogs have worked through any conflicts within a couple of weeks; however, sometimes it may take a bit longer before the two dogs have decided who is going to be Top Dog. If you have more than one dog at home, you may notice that one dog may be boss to another, but subservient to the second dog.
Preventing Fights - Food, Toys and Other Tempting Items
The most common sources of fights among dogs are food, treats, and favorite toys. While free-feeding your dog is never a good idea, it is especially critical to never leave a bowl of food out when you have two dogs together that have not established their pack hierarchy. Feed twice a day, in separate rooms with doors closed to prevent arguments.
Dogs will also fight over special treats. Pig ears, rawhides, chew hooves, bones, and other treats should be put away for a few weeks until the dogs have decided who is boss and you are sure there will be no fights over these highly sought-after snacks. Limit treats to those which can be fed directly from your hand. Give them directly to the dog, and do not place them on the floor or in any other place where the dogs may argue.
Does your own dog have a special toy? It might be a good idea to tuck this item away for a while until the dogs have established their routine. Dogs will often defend their favorite toys, which can be another source of conflict if left unsupervised.
Fido, Meet Kitty
Now that the canine intros are completed, what about introducing your new dog to the feline family member? The method that you use for this will largely depend on your dog's previous exposure to cats.
If your new dog has lived with cats before or has been "cat tested," you will still want to keep him on a leash while allowing him to greet your cat for the first time. This will give your cat a sense of security, and will also allow him to exit the room if necessary without being chased.
Keep in mind that certain dogs, especially large breeds, have a very high prey drive. While they may not intend harm to your cat, they will often be intrigued and will attempt a game of chase. Do your best to prevent this from occurring, as this behavior is reinforced each time your cat flees and your dog sees.
If your new dog is overly interested in your cat, keep the dog leashed when your cat is around. Praise him lavishly and provide treats for ignoring the cat. Likewise, when he engages in a chase or barks at the cat, make your displeasure known with a loud "NO KITTY!" A very good deterrent when used consistently is a spray bottle filled with 8 parts water and 2 parts vinegar. Spray the dog in the face when giving the "NO KITTY!" or "LEAVE IT" command. It may take a few days or a few weeks before your dog realizes that the cat is not a walking woobie. Be consistent and you'll eventually see results.
One simple and economical tool to assist in promoting a positive relationship between your cat and your new dog is the use of a baby gate. Use the gate to separate rooms of the house, allowing the dog to visualize the cat but not giving him access to the kitty. This will also allow your cat to join you in the remainder of the house, but if the dog begins to chase, your cat will have a means of escape into a dog-free room. Of course, if your dog is aggressive towards your cat (as opposed to simply being interested in play), seek the advice of a local trainer or behaviorist, and DO NOT allow your cat and dog to remain together unsupervised.
What You Need to Know About Adopting a Kennel Dog
Some of our available dogs have been used for breeding and thus have only lived in a kennel their whole lives. Every kennel survivor is different. What works on one or many, will completely fail on others. The only consistent thing is that they will need lots of patience, understanding, love, and probably most importantly, unconditional acceptance of what they are and what their limitations may be.
We would love to say that every kennel survivor only needs love to turn it into a wonderful family pet, but that would be a lie. Love is definitely needed in large amounts, but so is patience. The damage done during the years in the kennel usually can be overcome, but it takes time and dedication.
It Takes a Very Special Adopter for One of These Dogs
Not being "up to it" is not a crime, so it's important to be honest with yourself, and us, about your expectations. These dogs have already been through more than their share of heartache and if your entire family is not willing to make the commitment, the dog is better off staying in our care until the perfect home for them is found.
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You will need to learn how to handle your kennel dog.
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You will need to teach your dog how to walk on the leash.
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You will need to potty train your new dog.
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And, you may need to teach him not to mark in the house.
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Most importantly, you will need to learn how to gain their trust.
Handling Your New Kennel Dog
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Many of these dogs have had their spirits broken, so aggression is not normally an issue. There may be memory triggers that the dog may experience after it is settled in your home, so we will talk briefly about this.
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Many of these dogs have only been handled by the scruff of the neck, so they may be sensitive to the back of their neck.
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Many kennel dogs may try to always face you, not trusting you enough to give you easy access to them from behind
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NEVER startle a kennel or puppy mill dog from behind, you will lose any trust that you may have gained.
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You will need to learn how to pick up your kennel dog. We have some tips that may help you, should you consider adopting a kennel dog.
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Always be gentle and try to avoid picking them up until you see that they are receptive to it.​
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The bottom line is that these dogs have to progress at their own pace. Anything you force them to do will not be pleasant to them. Let them visit with you on their terms, whenever possible.
Learning About the House
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Many times when you bring a kennel dog into your home, it is their instinct to hide in a quiet corner.
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Kennel dogs usually do best in a home with another dog.
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It is ok to use a crate as long as it is in a central location in the house. The dog will feel safe yet be able to observe activity.
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Very few kennel dogs know what a leash is. After the quarantine, when the dog is out of the crate and supervised, it is not a bad idea to let them drag a leash around with them.
Gaining Trust
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A kennel dog has no reason to trust you. Your trust needs to be earned, little by little.
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Patience is a very important part of rehabbing a mill survivor. We have seen a lot of kennel dogs that don't want to eat whenever people are around.
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Feed your kennel dog on a set schedule with you nearby.
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Accepting a treat right out of your hand is a show of trust. Offer treats regularly.
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While you shouldn't overly force yourself upon your dog, it does need to get used to you. Sit and talk quietly while gently petting or massaging your dog. It is best to do this in an area where they, not necessarily you, are the most comfortable.
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They probably won't like it at first, but give them time to adjust. Some dogs sadly, never will adjust, and we will talk more about them later.
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Never allow friends to force attention on a kennel dog. Ask them not to look your dog directly in the eyes. It is not uncommon for kennel dogs to simply never accept outsiders.
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Let your dog set the pace.
Housebreaking
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A kennel dog has never lived in a home. They do not know that it is unacceptable to potty in the home. You will need to spend time to potty train your newly adopted kennel dog.
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A child spends the first one to two years of their life soiling their diaper and having you remove the dirty diaper and replace it with a clean one. A kennel dog spends its entire life soiling its living area. Potty training a child and housebreaking a kennel dog are the exact same procedures.
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A regular schedule, constant reinforcement, praise, and commitment on your part are a must! Would you ever scream at your child, march them to the bathroom, and make them sit on the toilet AFTER you discovered they soiled their diaper? A dog is no different in this sense; scolding them after the deed is done is of no benefit to anyone.
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The two most important things you can do are to get your new dog on a regular feeding schedule (which will put them on a regular potty schedule) and to observe them closely after feeding time.
Marking
Kennel dogs all have one thing in common...they were all used for breeding. A dog that marks its territory is 'warning' other dogs that this is its area...stay away! However, in a kennel situation, the dog's area is normally a 2X4 cage with other dogs in and around their 'territory.’ It becomes a constant battle of establishing territory and it is not uncommon to see male and female survivors with marking problems.
You may need to spend time training your kennel dog not to mark in the house. We have additional tips to give you, should you decide to adopt.
We hope this gives you some ideas as to the level of effort required when adopting a kennel dog. If you choose to proceed, we have additional suggestions and may suggest using a trainer as well.
We have come across a book that may also help those who are adopting a dog that has lived in a kennel: Puppy Mill Dogs Speak by Christine Palm Shaughness can be ordered from this website
Housebreaking Your New Dog
One of the advantages of adopting a dog vs. a puppy is that the adult dog is already housetrained. However, many dogs that enter rescues or shelters have never been allowed indoors and will need to learn basic house manners and housetraining. While the principles are the same for an adult dog as they are for a puppy, it is often much easier to train a dog or an older puppy who is old enough to have developed bladder control. In addition, the adult dog and older puppy have longer attention spans and are more readily able to learn the principles you are teaching them.
Housebreaking is often the first attempt at training you and your dog will make. It is very important to use careful thought and obtain accurate information prior to working with your dog. Incorrect technique, excessive, harsh, and ineffective punishment may lead to behavioral problems later. It is crucial that you work to control your own emotions and remain calm while training. Set realistic goals, and give it time.
Select an Area
Front or back yard? Not only is it easier to clean up one area, but your dog will learn which door to use to go outside to do his "business.”
Set a Schedule
Do not free feed your new dog. Not only does this promote unhealthy weight gain, but it also makes housetraining more difficult as you cannot expect when your dog may need to eliminate. Most dogs will need to defecate following a meal, and by designating feeding times you can anticipate when he will need to go outside.
So, when should you feed your dog? Most veterinarians recommend feeding large dogs twice a day to decrease hunger and prevent over-filling the stomach (thought to be associated with fatal conditions such as bloat or gastric torsion). If you work or leave the house in the morning, set the A.M. feeding early enough to allow you time to walk your dog or make sure he/she has eliminated. The evening meal generally should be fed no later than 6 pm, with 4 pm preferred. This allows ample time for digestion to occur and helps your dog to be able to do a last "doodle" before going to bed. If you find your dog leaves you a pile during the night, chances are you are feeding too late in the evening.
Praise, Praise, Praise - and Reward!
One of the best ways of helping your dog understand that he is successful in accomplishing what you've asked is by rewarding him or her with a treat. When Rover toilets outside, take a handful of treats with you and reward him with a little snack and lots of verbal praise for each success. Play with him for five or ten minutes afterward, which is an extra reward in and of itself for your dog. Additional training can also be incorporated into these sessions. Your dog will soon look forward to going outside to potty if you apply these principles.
